Friday, January 23, 2009

Good Times

I promised you good times ("And where are they?!" I can hear everyone shout.)

Let's let Mr. Obama do the worrying tonight. I think about him and his family being in a new house. And being in a new house is in itself exciting. Especially for kids.



Malia and Sasha - go for every window.

I have a friend in southern California who likes to cook beans. She and her husband inaugurated an informal tradition recently of cooking beans one night a week - Bean Night. Part austerity, part comfort. He's a chef at a five star hotel. She's a 'lady from Texas.' They agree on beans; she provides the Mexican bean pots and the cornbread; he provides the rigorous innovation.

They eat Very Well. On Dirt.

On a December visit, we talked about Bean Night, and the idea that something as lowly as a bean - uh, I mean, 'noble peasant,' etc. - could make haute cuisine. And still be considered a 'bean-counting' bill of fare. If you had to upscale a bean, did that mean shaving truffles on it, lobster claws, whatever.

I came back home and invented 'bean gras.' It's basically force-feeding beans, as though they were geese. Food people will tell you there are no new recipes, but here is a recipe for bean gras.

You take a piece of pork belly, about two pounds. You roast it, slowly, in a slow oven, about 300 degrees for a couple of hours, rubbed in salt and pepper. You eat that, for a meal of your own design. But you let the fat from it congeal, and you scrap that into a bean pot with a bag of beans. Standard supermarket bag - I don't know the weight. Use navy beans, or small white Northern beans. Add some water to cover the beans and give them an inch or two of water above. Then bake that for a couple of hours. Watch your water, and don't let the beans dry out, or let them stay too wet. You could do this over a campfire, if you were Mr. and Mrs. Cave. Just let them simmer. Until they are bean gras.

If you use a Very Good Bean, this is like beans that have been raised on pig butter.

Thank you for listening ma'am.

Next up: drinking songs from the surf mama Courages of San Diego.

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